jeuves - A busy day starting out with the three Gringos going separate ways in the AM, and independently discovering that the Obelisk had come out of the closet! We got together for lunch - words do not suffice, and then off to the Museum of Modern Latin Art, yawns do not suffice. Anne was flored by a gigantic tulip in a park just a mile away.
Then an afternoon in Palermo, a relatively affluent Barrio (movie here). Imagine miles of Newbury Street but with stenciled graffiti . Philip went wild with the art (check out the photo journal).
Back to home base for bibations, then off to a local jazz bar for classic oldies and modern pizza, and to a folk music bar where they gave GringosR.Us pride of place in the front row. A charming and delightful evening, es verdad.
viernes - The day started out with an intended trip to two parks - one on the waterfront and the other in Palermo. After a walk along some very trendy waterfront warehouse restorations, the first goal was short-circuited when we found a Riverboat Casino (where Anne won enough to buy dinner tonight) and the other when a cab brought us to the Zoo. Lunch at the Zoo - would you buy a sandwich called the "Zooburger"? Philip had a brief conversation with a big bird (see movie).
In the cab ride back to San Telmo we noticed that the Obelisk is now un-protected. Dinner at an Italian restaurant in the Monserrat barrio.
sabado - All the guide books say to avoid the waterfront Barrio, La Boca, so Anne and David walked there in the AM. The streets were a little seedier (and Anne was warned by a local to turn around and go back on one!). The waterfront itself was colorful and touristy. Lunch in a former brothel where a picture of Bill Clinton joined others whose fame might logically be associated with brothels.
Back to home base, where Philip arrived with gifts for his roomies and presented a munificent snack fest. Off to a local Tango bar in the PM (show started at 11PM, see long movie). Touristy and expensive, but all the tourists spoke Spanish, except maybe a few.
domingo - This is the day of the Dorrego fair in San Telmo; they close off Defensa to autos, and crowds of buyers and sellers mill in the streets (see movie) On right, unsuspecting Miss F. fails to watch out for pickpockets!
In the evening A&P&D went down to Puerto Madero and the trendy dique waterfront. The weather was warm and pleasant, with occasional light showers. Here is a movie of BA sightseers accompanying a naval band.
Off to a bustling Palermo for P&A shopping opportunities and dinner at Olsen's, a Swedish restaurant where Anne couldn't practice her Swedish, and where we met a couple from Swampscott who were in Argentina for polo playoffs.
lunes - Off in search of $ - everything here is less expensive, but there is an inclination to indulge. Philip found an ATM that would give him some dinero, but David no. Maybe later. Philip went downtown in search of photo opportunities while Anne & David ambled off to the Casa Rosada, the offices of the president. Many police, cheerfully ignored by a sunbathing populace, a good sign.
In the PM off to the Buquebus ferry terminal to get information about a possible trip to Uruguay tomorrow, and then to dinner at a local restaurant Avril, where the lavender, orange and coffee crème brulee topped off an impressive repast. At 9PM we were the first customers.
martes - Off in a fast boat to Uruguay across the Rio de la Plata at 11:30 AM. P&A&D arrived in Colonia, a charning peninsular town with a combat history (Portuguese, Spanish, and everybody else) going back 400 years. Now it is a friendly tourist town where nobody locks their doors, and schoolchildren play in the rubble of sacked nunneries. A&D went on a pleasant organized tour whilst P investigated real estate values.
On the slow boat back to BA, P&A hooked up with some nicely sunburned Swedish tourists, including a journalist with interests in Ernest Hemmingway. We whiled away the 3 hour trip with travel stories.
miercoles - The 3 Gringos went in 3 different directions this AM. David went on an extended walkabout past the Palacio del Congreso and Plaza San Martin, Anne went off to investigate the Opera House, and Philip "walked randomly and aimlessly through the streets of Buenos Aires", met and acquired the string man on right.
In the evening we went to the Viejo Rottiserie on Defensa in San Telmo, recommended by our Swedish acquaintances. No pretension here, see a long movie of the Chef relaxing with a cigarette (he used a hot coal to light up). P&A&D toasted the real BA.